I’m just back from a week on the other side of the Atlantic and oh, did I have a wonderful time. The best part about my trip was the people. I stayed at N29 Bed and Breakfast, which is so centrally located that even the public transportation apps put you at their front door 30 minutes after you pick up your luggage in Schiphol. Ian and Diederick are the bestest so - if Amsterdam is on your summer itinerary, book now.
Friends and serendipity introduced me to a few lovely cafés on quiet streets with great stories and vibes. They all exhibited a distinct lack of tourists, but then again it was February.
Artsy on a quiet canal
Back to Black is on a quiet corner facing the Lijnbaansgracht - one of Amsterdam’s many less-famous quiet canals. When we opened the door around 10 am on a Tuesday, the place was packed. Granted, there was only very cozy seating for about 25, but it was “I’ll just stand here uncomfortably in the corner while you finish your coffee and pay up” full. The vibe is artsy and cozy. The coffee is delicious and their Lemon Berry Cake is amazing. Apparently it used to be better, which I can hardly believe. But if you can get in a time machine AND visit Back to Black, you should.
Great for a meeting
Bocca on the Kerkstraat, is somehow both out of the way and a five minute walk from Leidseplein - one of the most touristy of tourist spots in Amsterdam. Walking in was a bit like walking through the mirror in an optical illusion because it was so spacious inside. They were likely overwhelmed as there were quite a few abandoned coffee cups on tables, but that didn’t stop me from grabbing a spot at a marble-top tulip table in the corner. Good coffee and a great location for a meeting/chat.
The table, by the way, I would have put in my luggage if it fit. I have a dream of that table in my 1914 Craftsman home dining room. White bookshelves on two walls, the gorgeous woodwork on the windows, and a round table for flow…. But I digress.
Traditional writer’s café
Festina Lente is an old school Dutch cafe of the best sort. The sign on the chalkboard advertised a monthly poetry night and my friend told stories of full house literary readings twenty years ago. It’s a place where you could stop by for coffee and not leave until late at night. They made a gorgeous appeltaart - ours was still warm out of the oven - and had a dinner menu as well. It’s got serious authentic Amsterdam energy, right down to the toilets where your knees nearly hit the door.
Trendy minimalist friendly
We happened upon Rum Baba while wandering away from Negenstraatjes (Nine Streets) crowds. So modern we weren’t sure where to sit and also friendly. We had a great coffee and a big laugh with the folks who worked there. A group of four tourists walked in, walked past them to use the toilet, and then walked right out. To their credit, the folks in the cafe didn’t say a word, but oh did we laugh about the signs one could imagine to discourage taking advantage of local businesses. I get it that toilets are harder to find in some places, but just ask!
Your turn…
Do you have a favorite Amsterdam (or any other city, really) cafe? Please let me know. I save them all on my map app, so tell me about a favorite in the comments!
*full disclosure: this list is four of the five places I visited while in town for four sleeps. Amsterdam is full of cool places, so explore and share!